Cats are unquestionably smart creatures. Their intelligence, however, is not a matter of understanding complex human ideas, but how to get the food, attention, play and care they so need and desire. In other words, cats know how to “work the system” and use their natural survival skills, even in a domestic environment.

Of course, some cats are bound to be better problem solvers than others. How do you know if you’ve got a brainy feline? There are no scientific tests to measure feline IQ. You can, however, get a pretty good idea of how smart your cat is just by observing him. Here are some questions to help you assess your cat’s intelligence:

1. When you open a can of cat food with an electric can opener, what does your cat do?
a) Runs and hides under the bed
b) Looks up briefly, then gets back to napping
c) Immediately races into the kitchen

2. When you get out the pet carrier, what does your cat do?
a) Gives it a quick glance
b) Runs away, but will come back if offered a treat
c) Hides and won’t come out

3. How often does your cat persuade you to get out of bed early to fix her breakfast?
a) Never
b) Once in a while
c) Every day
 
4. Has your cat ever learned to do something just by watching you do it, such as how to open a cupboard door or turn off a light switch?
a) No
b) Yes, one or two easy procedures like how to open the box of cat treats
c) Yes. There are many things my cat has learned to do just by observing me.

5. If you come home at the same time every day, does your cat wait for your arrival, apparently aware that you have a regular return time?
a) No
b) Yes. He’s usually waiting for me by the door.
c) Yes. As soon as I walk in, he escorts me to the kitchen so I can get him dinner.

6. If a piece of food or a cat toy is out of your cat’s reach or trapped behind an object, what does your cat do?
a) Paws at it once or twice, but gives up if that doesn’t work
b) Tries to retrieve the item with her mouth and one of her paws and gives up after several failed attempts
c) Uses both of her paws and her mouth to grasp the item and won’t quit until she’s successful

7. Does your cat enjoy playing games with you?
a) Not at all
b) Occasionally
c) Very much so — especially challenging games like hide-and-go-seek

8. If your cat sees a bird outside the window, what does he do?
a) Bangs his head against the glass, trying to reach the bird
b) Paws madly at the window and yowls until I shut the blinds
c) Races to the door and meows until I let him outside

9. If you’ve ever moved your cat’s feeding dishes or litterbox from one part of the house to another, how long did it take her to get used to the new location?
a) Several weeks
b) A few days
c) One day or less

10. When you call your cat’s name, what does he do?
a) Nothing
b) Looks my way for a second or turns his ears in my direction
c) Immediately runs toward me

11. Does your cat ever get bored with her toys and create her own amusements using your socks, the goldfish bowl, the tassels on your drapes, etc.?
a) My cat’s not very interested in toys.
b) Sometimes
c) Almost daily

12. If a guest teased or pestered your cat in the past, does your cat single out that person as trouble — for example, by avoiding that person but allowing other guests to handle him?
a) No. My cat acts the same toward everyone.
b) He does prefer some people over others, but there’s no clear reason for his preferences.
c) Most definitely! My cat remembers who gave him grief and does not forget.

13. How often do you come home from work to discover that your cat has gotten into mischief while you were away?
a) Never
b) Now and then
c) All the time

14. While petting your cat, does she let you know where she most wants to be stroked and for how long?
a) No. She becomes extremely relaxed and doesn’t care where or how long she’s being stroked.
b) She purrs if she likes what I’m doing and growls or hisses if I pet her where she doesn’t want to be touched.
c) She moves around to make it easier for me to pet certain parts of her body.

15. What happens when you try to teach your cat a trick?
a) My cat never figures out what I’m trying to teach him.
b) After several training sessions, my cat is pretty good at it.
c) My cat masters the trick after one short training session.

16. After you’ve taught your cat a trick, will she still remember how to do it a month from now if you haven’t done any refresher sessions?
a) Not likely
b) Probably
c) Definitely

17. When your cat wants something from you, what does he do?
a) Purrs
b) Meows a little more loudly than usual
c) Makes a variety of vocalizations, depending on what he wants

18. How often does your cat coax you into playtime?
a) Rarely
b) Sometimes
c) Frequently

19. How does your cat react when the litterbox needs cleaning?
a) Goes in the same spot until I notice the mountain inside the litterbox
b) Starts using the planters for a litterbox or goes outside the litter pan
c) Goes outside the litterbox and meows loudly to get the point across

20. When your cat’s food bowl is empty, what does he do to remedy the situation?
a) Sits quietly in the cat tree and waits for me to feed him
b) Leaps onto my lap and meows until I realize he’s hungry
c) Opens the cupboard where the bag of cat food is stored and rips it open

SCORING

Give your cat one point for every “c” answer. Deduct one point for every “a” answer. A “b” answer is a neutral response and doesn’t affect the score. Tally up the total number of points, and grade your cat according to the scale below.

Less than 5 points: Smarts aren’t your kitty’s strongest suit, but chances are that your cat is a wonderful companion, even if he doesn’t know how to open up the pantry to get out a treat!
6 – 15 points: When it comes to bell curves, your feline’s where most cats are: right in the middle. Your cat has average intelligence and can learn a few tricks, but has no desire to take apart the cat water fountain and reassemble it.
15 – 20 points: You may just be living with a feline Einstein! Your cat is extremely intelligent and continually amazes you with new tricks. Your cat also knows how to get you to do things her way. You’re going to need to be pretty crafty yourself if you want to outsmart your cat!

Rebecca Sweat is a freelance writer specializing in pet and family topics. She lives in the Dallas area with her husband, two sons and many pets

Dehydration in dogs, which occurs due to an excessive loss of body fluids, is a common and dangerous condition that needs to be immediately addressed. If left untreated, dehydration can lead to serious consequences, including organ failure and death. For this reason, pet parents should learn to recognize the signs of dehydration and how to respond to it with proper dog first aid and veterinary attention.

Dehydration in Dogs is Typically Caused by:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Fever
• Not enough intake of food or water
• Overexposure to heat

An ill dog is at high danger of dehydration, since the illness can cause dog diarrhea , dog vomiting, fever and a lack of desire to eat and drink.

Along with a loss of water, dehydration also typically involves a loss of electrolytes – minerals such a sodium, chloride and potassium.

Signs of Dehydration in Dogs Include:

• Lack of skin elasticity
• Dry, sticky gums
• Sunken eyes
• Too much or too little urination
• Lethargy
• Delay in capillary refill time (the time it takes for your dog’s gum to return to its normal color after you press your finger against it)

How to Determine Dehydration in Dogs
Although it is less accurate than medical testing from your veterinarian, a quick at-home physical examination to test the elasticity of your dog’s skin can help tell you if your dog is dehydrated. To check, do the following:

Gently pull up on the skin at the back of your dog’s neck. If the skin does not immediately spring back to its normal position (within 1 or 2 seconds), your dog is dehydrated and needs immediate attention. The longer it takes for the skin to return to its normal position, the more severe the dehydration.

Be aware that if your dog is older it will be more difficult to accurately perform this test, since older dogs naturally lose some of their skin elasticity.

Accurately determining dehydration in dogs via the skin test is also difficult in overly skinny (malnourished) or obese dogs. The skin of malnourished dogs, like the skin of older dogs, loses some of its elasticity.

Determining the level of dehydration is also difficult in obese dogs, since excessive skin fat can cause the skin to return to normal even if the dog is dehydrated. In such instances, check for dehydration by feeling your dog’s gums to see if they are dry and sticky. If so, then your dog is probably dehydrated.

Bear in mind that even if your pet’s skin snaps back to normal immediately, he may still be dehydrated. This is because even pets that are dehydrated will have skin that immediately snaps back to normal if the pet is less than 5 percent dehydrated. The higher the level of dehydration, the more pronounced will be the symptoms.

What You Should do for Dehydration in Dogs
As mentioned above, dehydration in dogs is serious and if left untreated can be fatal. Therefore, it needs to be addressed immediately. If you suspect that your dog is dehydrated, do not attempt to treat him at home, as it is unlikely he will be able to drink enough water to correct the situation. The best course of action is to immediately take your dog to your veterinarian or an emergency veterinary clinic for diagnosis and treatment.

Your veterinarian will determine the level of your dog’s dehydration and the volume of fluids needed to re-hydrate him. Fluids will then most likely be administered either subcutaneously (under the skin) or intravenously for greatest efficiency.

Your veterinarian will typically also ask you questions about your dog’s recent eating and drinking habits and physical symptoms, as well as perform a physical examination and laboratory tests to determine the level of your dog’s dehydration, as well as the cause of the dehydration.

Once again, do not attempt to treat a dehydrated dog at home. If you suspect that your dog is dehydrated, be safe and take him to your veterinarian.

If he is not vomiting, you could also try giving him Pedialyte®, an electrolyte-replacement drink made for infants, which is also safe for dogs. This should not, however, replace bringing your dog to the veterinarian for prompt medical treatment.

To avoid dehydration, always make sure that your dog has plenty of clean, fresh water available and that he eats and drinks normally.

If your dog is ill or injured, monitor him closely to make sure he is drinking enough water to replenish fluids lost due to vomiting, diarrhea or fever. Also be aware that excess fluids are lost as a result of excessive panting or severe drooling. In cases of drooling, the dog’s gums may feel moist, even though he is dehydrated.

After your dog has been re-hydrated, it is essential that your veterinarian perform the proper examinations and tests to determine the underlying cause. Only by doing so can you ensure that your pet is healthy and avoid repeated dehydration.

 Again, dehydration in dogs is a serious condition that requires prompt attention by a veterinary profession. Do not take chances with your dog’s life. If at any time you suspect that your dog might be dehydrated, immediately bring him to your veterinarian for diagnoses and treatment.

As summer approaches and the weather heats up, my clients are more likely to frequent dog parks for a fun outdoor escape where their four-legged friends can play and socialize. In fact, more pet owners are utilizing dog parks than ever before.

With a 34 percent increase over the past five years, dog parks are the fastest-growing segment of city parks in the U.S., according to a study by the non-profit Trust for Public Land. As dog park visits increase,I like to  remind all of my dog-owning clients about the importance of safety when visiting their favorite dog park.

In 2011, VPI policyholders spent more than $8.6 million on medical conditions that are commonly associated with a visit to the dog park. According to VPI, here are the most common dog park related injuries:

• Sprains and soft tissue injuries
• Lacerations and bite wounds
• Kennel cough/upper respiratory infection
• Insect bites
• Head trauma
• Hyperthermia or heat stroke
• Parasites
• Parvovirus

Before visiting the dog park, make sure you understand that dog parks have their rules, just like any other community. Below are a few simple but important tips for ensuring a fun and safe trip to the dog park:

• Obey all posted rules and regulations
• Pay attention to your dog at all times
• Don’t bring a puppy younger than four months old
• Make sure your dog is up to date on vaccinations and has a valid license
• Keep a collar on your dog
• On very warm days, avoid the dog park during peak temperature hours, typically between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
• Look for signs of overheating, including profuse and rapid panting, a bright red tongue, thick drooling saliva, and lack of coordination. If this occurs, take your dog to a veterinarian immediately.

Our Groomer Autumn and our receptionist Lacy went and participated in the local Corporate 5K downtown Orlando and had a blast. We love to share this kind of stuff with our clients and want you guys to share fun stuff like this with us!!! Unfortunately with 15,000 other people running they weren’t allowed to run with pets but regardless they had a blast! I had them take some photo’s to upload for you to see!

Pet owners can’t figure out why cats are friendly one minute and aggressive the next. Cat bites are very common and probably occur more frequently than dog bites; however, they are infrequently reported. Aggressive cats can be dangerous, so attempting to resolve a cat aggression problem often requires a specialist who is trained in animal behavior medicine.

There are several types of feline aggression. The list below includes some of the most common forms.

Aggression With Petting

This behavior isn’t well understood, even by experienced animal behaviorists. Some cats will suddenly bite while they’re being petted or held. For whatever reason, petting, which the cat was previously enjoying, apparently becomes unpleasant. Biting is the cat’s signal that she has had enough. Cats vary in how much they’ll tolerate being petted or held. Although people often describe their cats as biting “out of the blue” or without warning, cats do generally give several signals before biting.

You should become more aware of your cat’s body postures, and cease petting or stop any other kind of interaction before a bite occurs. Signals to be aware of include:

• The cat becomes restless
• The tail begins to twitch
• The cat’s ears turn back or flick back and forth
• The cats head starts moving toward your hand

When any of these signals become apparent, it is time to stop the petting or holding the cat. The best thing to do is put the cat down and stop petting her. Absolutely do not impose any physical punishment on the cat as she or he may bite. Physical punishment may make it worse the next time you try to pet her or pick her up.

If you want to try to prolong the amount of time your cat will tolerate petting, use a food reward. When your cat first begins to show an undesirable behavior (or even before), offer her a favorite tidbit of food. As you give her the food, decrease the intensity of your petting. In this way, she’ll come to associate petting with something pleasant and may help her to enjoy petting for longer periods of time. Each time you work with your cat, try to pet her a little longer. Be sure to stop petting before she shows any aggression.

Play Aggression

Play aggressive behavior is usually observed in young cats who live in single-cat households. These cats are very active and generally less than two years old. This behavior provides kittens and cats the opportunity to practice the skills they would normally need to have in order to survive in the wild. Play incorporates a variety of behaviors, such as exploratory (explore new areas), investigative (investigate anything that moves) and predatory (bat at, pounce on, and bite objects that resemble prey) behaviors.

Playful aggression often occurs when an unsuspecting owner comes down the stairs, rounds a corner, or even moves under the bedcovers while sleeping. These playful attacks may result in scratches and bites which usually don’t break the skin. People sometimes inadvertently initiate aggressive behavior by encouraging their cat to chase or bite at their hands and feet during play. The body postures seen during play aggression resemble the postures a cat would normally show when searching for or catching prey. A cat may freeze in a low crouch before pouncing, twitch her tail, flick her ears back and forth, and/or wrap her front feet around a person’s hands or feet while biting. These are all normal cat behaviors, whether they’re seen during play or are part of an actual predatory sequence. Most play aggression can be successfully redirected to appropriate targets; however, it may still result in injury.

In order to correct this behavior, you need to redirect your kitten’s aggressive behavior onto acceptable objects. Drag a toy along the floor to encourage your kitten to pounce on it, or throw a toy away from your kitten to give her even more exercise by chasing the toy down. Another good toy is one that your kitten can wrestle with, like a soft stuffed toy that’s about the size of your kitten. She can grab this toy with both front feet, bite it, and kick it with her back feet. This resembles the way young kittens play with each other. Encourage play with a “wrestling toy” by rubbing it against your kitten’s belly when she wants to play rough. Be careful and get your hand out of the way as soon as she accepts the toy.

Since kittens need quite a bit of playtime, try to set up three or four consistent times during the day to play with your kitten. This will help her understand that she doesn’t have to be the one to initiate play by pouncing on you.

Fearful/Defensive Aggression

Cats that are fearful may display body postures which appear to be similar to canine submissive postures

The adult cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis) is a ubiquitous, enterprising and persevering insect. The cat flea is the most dominant, competitive and most common flea associated with domesticated animals today.

It has been linked to numerous human diseases (such as the plague or typhus) and re

mains the scourge of veterinary medicine.

Cat fleas are known to infest numerous hosts, including the domesticated cat, dog, ferret and many other wild animals. They have been identified in large numbers on raccoons, opossum, skunks, domesticated rabbits, coyotes, foxes, mongooses (in parts of Hawaii) and even koalas. They are known to infest cows, goats and certain types of poultry.

Busting rumors

Unfortunately, most owners, pet-store personnel and groomers tend to perpetuate numerous false facts about the hosts of the adult cat flea. It is rarely, if at all, found on squirrels and wild rabbits. The belief that squirrels are promoting and infecting the environment is a common misconception, especially among pet owners. The real culprits are nocturnal animals such as opossum, raccoons, feral cats and skunks frequenting pet owners’ backyards and gardens. This environmental contamination can lead to adult flea infestations on pet animals, and subsequent problems in homes.

This leads to another of the common misconceptions about fleas: They jump from one infested pet to another. What is fascinating and amazing is that many veterinarians believe this myth.

The adult cat flea is very much happy and content to live on a cat or dog. The adult flea has everything it needs. They have a warm place to live, a place to hide from predators and a constant source of nutritious food (blood meal of the host).

Typically, fleas do not leap from host to host as a rule. This phenomenon has been observed when there is a severe overpopulation of adult fleas on a pet.

Hitching a ride

The problem begins when these adult fleas begin to breed (especially in flea-allergic pets). Adult fleas feed on the host within a few minutes or less after establishing a safe home. Breeding begins (usually within a day or two after feeding) followed by egg production. On any given host there are about twice as many adult female fleas as males. These female fleas are capable of laying up to 40 to 50 eggs per day.

Most eggs desiccate in the outdoor environment after dropping off the host. Most experts believe that 50 percent to 70 percent or more of the ova produced by a female flea may be viable. It appears that the outdoor environment is much harsher than indoor environments. Lack of humidity (50 percent or less) is second to lack of a food source as the most lethal environmental condition immature fleas are exposed to. Egg production and hatching eggs begin within 48 hours. Eggs are not sticky, and fall to the ground. As mentioned previously, ova do not survive without adequate moisture (humidity). Surviving eggs will begin to hatch into larvae. Larval survival is dependent upon adequate moisture as well. Thus, desiccation of larvae can occur. Larvae will survive in soil, grass, carpets, unwashable pet bedding, as well as within cracks between hardwood floors. Larvae may drown in soil that is over saturated. The main food source for these larval organisms is the adult-flea feces that deposits in the environment where the animal may frequent. Egg survivability and larval development is dependent upon temperature. The ideal temperature is 65F-75F degrees (with relative humidity around 75 percent). Keep in mind that humidity is much higher deep in the carpet pile or soil, compared to the humidity measured in the air.

It is important to point out the amazing survivability of fleas and the immature stages. All stages of the flea life cycle can survive temperatures as low as 28F (for brief periods of time) and as high as 95F. Most immature stages do not survive above 95F, especially in full sun.

In colder climates, like the Northeast, fleas may continue to survive living on hosts in pets or wild-animal bedding, in carpets, in freeze-protected areas around homes or in wild-animal burrows.

The surviving larvae feed voraciously on adult-flea excrement and undergo at least two moltings over a course of one to two weeks. This pre-pupal stage may be the most critical stage in regard to environmental control, which will be discussed later. Mature larvae will actually transform into a cocoon or pupae. The cocoon is literally spun with “silk” by the mature larvae. The cocoon is covered in this silk (that is sticky) produced by the larvae but soon becomes covered in environmental debris, such as soil and other loose particles.

The pupal stage is the most indestructible to environmental hazards as well as insecticides. Pupae make up about 20 percent of the total life cycle but survival can be as high as 80-90 percent, obviously much higher than eggs and larvae.

Approximately one week after the formation of the pupal stage, the newly emerged adult is ready to leap onto the host. If environmental conditions are poor (i.e., very cold temperatures or low humidity), there may be a very long delay in the emergence of adults.

This delayed emergence is a very important detail in the flea’s life cycle. Its ability to rest and emerge at a much later date often can surprise the owner and the veterinarian. It has been proven that this delayed emergence can be up to seven to eight months.

The triggers that allow the cocoon to hatch and promote the emergence of the adult include exhaled carbon dioxide from host. In addition, body heat is considered to be a trigger that promotes pupal hatching.

Lastly, another trigger for hatching is vibration. As the host walks along, certain vibrations, such as debris moving about, promote the emergence of the adult flea.

Understanding the life cycle of the flea can allow the clinician to make reasonable decisions and offer proper treatment options. This is especially true for cases of flea-allergy dermatitis (FAD).

Clinical distribution

Canine FAD is a common disease, is often overlooked, and can range in severity. The clinical distribution can vary, but usually it is fairly consistent in dogs and is mainly confined to the dorsal lumbar-sacral area and groin. It is characterized by alopecia, erythema, excoriations and occasional concurrent pyoderma. Pruritus can be severe and result in substantial hair loss, hot spots (pyotraumatic), and secondary (often recurrent) superficial pyoderma on the groin. Less common, mild pruritus on the rump may be accompanied by more substantial, severe recurrent pyoderma of the groin.

Flea allergy in the cat can be a more challenging diagnosis. Cats are very efficient groomers and often swallow fleas, making it very hard to convince the clinician (as well as the owner) that fleas are the cause of the pruritus. The clinical presentation can be similar to dogs. Alopecia (caused by “over-grooming”) can be present on the rump and/or groin without obvious inflammation. Cats rarely develop pyoderma. Some cats present with military dermatitis around the neck, and it is characterized by numerous small-crusted papules with concurrent pruritus in the same area.

Adult fleas may be seen, but are not necessary to make a tentative diagnosis of FAD. Unfortunately, atopic dermatitis uncommonly accompanies FAD and can often confuse or distract the clinician.

In general, I recommend a good quality monthly product such as the topical spot-ons Advantage, Frontline, Vectra 3-D, Promeris or Revolution, or the monthly oral flea product Comfortis. These products have some differences, but in general they all work adequately for flea control. One limitation that I have noticed with some of these products is it appears they “wear off” in about two to three weeks after application. However,I have been recently impressed with the duration of action with Vectra 3-D and Comfortis. Since some of these products may “wear off” in about two to three weeks, active adult fleas may be noticed just before the next dosage. This is not due to resistance, but to the limitations inherent to these products. Sometimes, frequent swimming or bathing (especially with harsh shampoos) can remove some of these products as well. Capstar is recommended and can be used in acute infestations for a rapid onset in flea control. It can be used as a long-term maintenance regimen every other day or every third day.

Lastly, in situations where the environment has numerous hatching pupae topical spot-on products may be overwhelmed. In treatment failures, I recommend increasing the monthly topical products to every two to three weeks. Sometimes we may add additional treatments including Capstar. This product has a very wide safety margin and can be used in puppies and kittens as young as 4 weeks old. Capstar is quite effective, but may only last one to two days after administration.

The environmental infestation with pre-adults is often the most overlooked portion of flea control. As mentioned previously, about 70 percent to 80 percent or more of the life cycle is hidden in the environment. The eggs, larvae and pupae are in the soil, grass, gardens and the home. In California and the arid West, immature stages perish in non-irrigated areas by mid-summer. However, they survive quite nicely in indoor environments such as carpeting, area rugs, pet bedding, cracks between hardwood floors, upholstered furniture (under cushions), and in carpeted hallways in common areas in apartments.

Since the pupal stages are virtually indestructible, they may continue to emerge over time (delayed emergence) and jump on pets even though proper adulticides are being used and the environment has been treated with insect growth regulators (IGRs such as methoprene or pyriproxifen). These IGRs are very helpful and will target and kill most of the larval and some of the egg stages, but not the coccoon stage. Stopping egg hatchability and interfering with larval molting blocks a big portion of the pre-adult life cycles.

In moderate to severe flea infestations or with “treatment failures,” I recommend spraying the indoor environments with products that contain these IGRs. Knockout or Siphotrol brands are adequate. I prefer Knockout spray, because it tends to dry on contact and is less messy. These sprays are designed for indoor use only. They contain permethrins that may have ovicidal activity but mainly kill newly emerging fleas from cocoon stages for a quick “knock down” of adults. Sodium polyborate (Fleabusters) is effective in the home, and “dehydrates” larvae by desiccation. It is speculated that the larvae choke on the fine dust.

The outdoor environment can be treated with larvicidal sprays. I do not recommend malathion or diazinon because these chemicals are environmentally unsafe to other beneficial insects and wildlife. What we do recommend is a biological product that contains nematodes (Steinernema). These nematodes are natural and preferentially feed on parasitic larvae (fleas, cutworms, Japanese Beetles, etc.) and work quite well. They need some moisture periodically and may need to be replenished every few months.

In summary, with the arrival of the newer generation insecticides, the ability to apply the “monthly” spot-ons every two to three weeks, and the knowledge of the flea life cycle, clinicians should be able to better manage those difficult cases of flea-allergy dermatitis.

Dr. Vitale received his veterinary degree from Mississippi State University, College of Veterinary Medicine. He completed a residency in veterinary dermatology at the University of California, Davis and is a diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Dermatology. He is a clinical instructor/lecturer at UC-Davis and a staff dermatologist at East Bay Veterinary Specialists (formerly Encina Veterinary Hospital), Bay Area Veterinary Specialists and San Francisco Veterinary Specialists.